Read through our guide to learn “how to choose the lash growth serum” to have the permanently luscious lashes you’ve always wanted.
What are lashes?
Eyelashes have both physiological and aesthetic functions. Having luscious, natural lashes is not just for enhancing one’s beauty. They form a barrier between the outer and inner environment of the eyes and are extremely sensitive to contact. Through them, the blinking reflex is triggered, protecting the eyeballs from debris and irritants. They also maintain the health of the eyelid margins, which are responsible for producing tear film and eye protection.
But due to its ability to feminize the eyes and make a face more attractive, many women have sought products to make their lashes longer, fuller, and thicker. It makes more sense to resort to a more permanent way of growing those lashes by using growth serums than the temporary eyelash extensions and mascaras.
What is a lash growth serum?
Eyelash growth serums are designed to enhance eyelash growth. To fully understand how the growth serums work, knowing the life cycle of lashes is a must. Like the hair on the other parts of your body, the life cycle of lashes consists of the following phases:
Anagen (growth) phase: Lashes grow at a rate of 0.12 to 0.14 mm daily for four to ten weeks. Lashes do not grow beyond 12 mm because they have a shorter growing phase, unlike scalp hair, whose growth phase can last for 2 to 6 years. (2)
Catagen (regression) phase: When the lashes reach their maximum length. The hair stops growing and starts to shrink, lasting for about two weeks.
Telogen (resting) phase: The lashes stop growing and prepare to shed the hair in this phase, which lasts five months. Unlike scalp hair, the telogen phase of the lashes is longer.
Types of lash growth serums: how they work and side effects.
There are several cosmetic products advertised to make eyelashes longer, fuller, and darker. Each of these serums has its own key ingredient for activating lash growth and different side effect risks. For the purposes of this review we will focus on the two popular types of lash serums: Prostaglandin and Peptide based lash serums.
Prostaglandin Lash Serums
Prostaglandins are lipids that act as hormones and regulate different body physiological processes, including hair growth.
Prostaglandin’s and their analogues (similar synthetically made versions) like latanoprost, bimatoprost, and travopost have been used to treat glaucoma by reducing patients eye pressure. The potential of prostaglandins as hair growth stimulants was accidentally discovered in 1997 when an study was published about how latanoprost eye drops for glaucoma treatment also showed improved eyelashes – making them longer, thicker, darker, and curvaceous.
In 2002, a newer prostaglandin analog, bimatoprost, led to even more prominent eyelashes than latanoprost. It is the only FDA-approved treatment option for eyelash hypotrichosis (little or no hair growth). Studies have shown that Bimatoprost (Latisse) can extend the duration of the anagen (growth) phase of eyelashes. It may have influenced this hair growth cycle by stimulating hair follicles in the anagen phase earlier and longer. This was evident by seeing more anagen hair follicles than telogen and catagen among subjects treated with bimatoprost.
Because of these research findings, many eyelash growth enhancement serums were developed using prostaglandin or prostaglandin analogues.
How long will it take to see results from prostaglandin?
Applied daily, users typically see full results after 2-3 months.
Prostaglandin Side Effects
Common side effects of prolonged prostaglandin analog use are conjunctival hyperemia (dilation of conjunctival vessels and redness), dryness, itchiness, and darkening the skin surrounding the eyes. They, especially bimatoprost, are also associated with more severe but infrequent adverse effects like eye infection, cataracts, blurring of vision, punctate keratitis (raised spots on the cornea), inflamed eyelids, headache, eye pain, light sensitivity, macular and degeneration, among others.
The associated side effects of prostaglandin analogues led to the limit of their sale to prescription only in some markets through to a complete ban in many countries.
Common Ingredients
Prostaglandin (Bimatoprost) or analogues (Isopropyl cloprostenate, Isopropanol Phenyl-hydroxyl-pentene, Dihydroxy-cyclopentyl-heptenate, Dechloro Dihydroxy Difluoro, Ethylcloprostenolamide, Trifluoromethyl Dechloro Ethylprostenolamide)
Brands
Latisse, Grandelash, Neulash, RevitaLash, M2 Lashes Eyelash activating serum, Peter Thomas, Rapidlash, Roth Lashes to Die For Platinum, Rodan and Fields Lash Boost, UKlash.
Peptide Lash Serums
A peptide is a short chain of amino acids. The amino acids in a peptide are connected to one another in a sequence by bonds called peptide bonds. In lash serums, the two most common peptide proteins are Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 and Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16. These peptides act by stimulating keratin production, which is a key structural protein of hair. In addition, myristoyl pentapeptide-17 promotes the delivery of other key ingredients in the serum.
lashfridays is a peptide-based lash serum
Studies of lash serums incorporating one of these or similar peptides have been shown to improve lash length, luster, thickness, volume, and curl. Most petide based lash serums also contain conditioning and moisturizing agents such as Biotin, Arginine and Collagen.
How long will it take to see results from peptides?
A recent study showed results for 95% of women taking peptide lash serums after one month.
Peptide side effects
Peptide based lash serums typically have minimal side effects and are suitable for sensitive skin. The most common reported side effects are irritation and redness of the eyes.
Common Ingredients
Peptides: Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Brands
lashfridays, covergirl lashblast, indeed labs peptablast, milk makeup kush growhouse, neutrogena healthy lashes.
Which Lash Serum should I choose?
Best lash serum for people with hypotrichosis:
For those with hypotrichosis (little to no hair growth) and require an ophthalmologist (eye doctor) consult, we recommend a prostaglandin-based product, specifically Latisse. Latisse is the first FDA-approved treatment that was clinically proven to grow eyelashes. It takes approximately 2 months of twice daily application for noticeable improvement.
Best lash serum for everyone else:
If you do not have hypotrichosis and want a product to aesthetically improve the appearance of your lashes, making them longer, fuller and darker, an over-the-counter Peptide based lash growth serum is the best lash serum for you.